Solar hardware, decoded, panels, inverters, batteries
Your installer will happily choose everything for you, and mostly optimise for their margin. Twenty minutes of hardware literacy changes the conversation. No affiliate links here; just the trade-offs.
At a glance, 10-second read
- ▸Panels: Mono-PERC is the sensible default; TOPCon if your roof is tight or city is hot.
- ▸Inverter: string for shadow-free roofs, hybrid if you have power cuts, micro only for shading.
- ▸Battery: skip it unless cuts exceed 1-2 hrs/day, the grid is your battery via net metering.
- ▸Non-negotiable for the subsidy: ALMM-listed, DCR-compliant panels + BIS-certified inverter.
Panels, the muscle
Panels are the most commoditised part of your system. Efficiency decides how much roof you need; the warranty decides how long it keeps earning. Everything on this table assumes ALMM-listed, DCR-compliant models (the only kind that gets you the subsidy):
| Type | Efficiency | Typical price | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mono-PERC | 20-22% | ₹26-34/Wp | Small-to-medium roofs |
| TOPCon (n-type) | 22-23.5% | ₹30-38/Wp | Tight roofs, hot cities |
| Polycrystalline | 16-18% | ₹20-26/Wp | Large, shadow-free roofs |
| Bifacial (dual glass) | 21-23% + rear gain | ₹32-40/Wp | Elevated/raised structures |
Mono-PERC: The default choice for most homes. Best balance of efficiency, price, and availability on the ALMM list.
TOPCon (n-type): Newer tech: better low-light and hot-weather performance, slower degradation. Worth the premium if your roof is tight or your city is hot.
Polycrystalline: Cheapest per watt, but needs ~20% more roof area for the same output. Only sensible if roof space is truly unlimited.
Bifacial (dual glass): Generates from both faces, the rear gain (5-15%) only materialises on elevated structures over reflective surfaces, not flush-mounted roofs.
Inverters, the brain (and the part that fails first)
Panels last 25 years; inverters last 8-12. That's why the inverter decision is really aservice network decision, a dead inverter means zero generation until someone shows up. Prefer brands with a service centre in your district, and a 5-10 year warranty.
String inverter (grid-tied)
₹25-45k for 3-5kWThe standard for Indian rooftops. One box converts everything. Weakness: one shaded panel drags the whole string down.
Best for: Shadow-free roofs (most homes)
Hybrid inverter
₹60k-1.2L for 3-5kWGrid-tied + battery-ready. Buy this if you have daily power cuts or want backup later without replacing the inverter.
Best for: Areas with frequent cuts
Microinverters / optimisers
₹8-14k per panelPer-panel conversion, shading on one panel doesn't hurt the rest, and monitoring is panel-level. Expensive; justified mainly on partially shaded roofs.
Best for: Partially shaded roofs
Batteries, usually skip, sometimes essential
A grid-tied system shuts down during power cuts (anti-islanding, it protects linemen working on the lines). If your area has rare cuts, that's a non-issue and a battery is ₹50,000-1,00,000 you don't need to spend. If you have daily cuts, pair a hybrid inverter with either a solar-rated C10 lead-acid battery (cheaper, 4-6 year life) or LiFePO4 (2-3× the price, 10+ year life, smaller). Never regular automotive or inverter-tubular batteries, they die fast under solar's daily deep cycling.
The structure, boring, and the most common regret
Cheap mounting structure is where lowball quotes hide their margin. Demand: hot-dip galvanised iron or aluminium (mandatory near the coast), wind-speed rating appropriate to your zone, and warranted waterproofing at every roof anchor. A rusted, leaking structure in year 3 costs more than the ₹4,000-6,000/kW a good one adds upfront.
Verify before you buy
We are not affiliated with any government body. Applications and current scheme rules live on these official portals, never pay anyone to "arrange" the subsidy for you.
Hardware FAQs
Which solar panel brand is best in India?
Any Tier-1 ALMM-listed brand with a 25+ year performance warranty and a service presence in your state is fine, Waaree, Adani, Vikram, Tata Power Solar, Goldi, RenewSys and several others qualify. The exact model's ALMM listing and your installer's workmanship matter more than the logo.
Do I need a battery with rooftop solar?
Only if you have real power cuts (say, more than 1-2 hours a day). A grid-tied system without battery is cheaper, simpler, and the grid itself acts as your 'battery' via net metering. If you do need one, use solar-rated (C10) or LiFePO4 batteries, not car batteries.
What is DCR and why does my subsidy depend on it?
Domestic Content Requirement: for PM Surya Ghar, both the solar cells and the modules must be manufactured in India. Panels assembled in India from imported cells do NOT qualify, the subsidy is rejected at inspection. Get the DCR certificate in writing with your quote.
How many panels do I need for 3kW?
With today's typical 400-550W residential panels: 6-8 panels for 3kW, needing roughly 270 sq ft of shadow-free roof. Higher-wattage panels mean fewer panels but each one is physically larger.
Hardware sorted? Two steps left.
Know your numbers, then grill your vendor with the checklist.